Monday, June 22, 2020

Louisiana Quilts: Before 1880

Crazy quilt by Mary Matilda Tarleton Leake (1856-1934)
Louisiana State Museum

Mary Matilda Tarleton Leake (1856-1934) won a prize with this crazy quilt entered in New Orleans's 1884-1885 World's Cotton and Industrial Exposition, depicting fair themes of Louisiana Industry and Cotton. Several crazy quilts were probably displayed at that fair as the style was a nationwide fad at the time.
Quilt Index Record: http://www.quiltindex.org/fulldisplay.php?kid=1B-3A-6E

Mary Matilda's quilt was the earliest Louisiana quilt with a date on it we could find, which surprised us at the Facebook group.

Rev A.E. Goodwyn, 1867

A contender is this wool & silk embroidered and appliqued sampler made by Methodist Church members in New Iberia. But was it made in 1867?  The style seems later.


Alden O'Brien noted that the Methodist minister "arrived in 1868 [or 1867?? ] The date could commemorate his departure or his service much later, similar to DAR’s Baltimore album honoring Jackson’s battle of New Orleans in 1815." 

The DAR's Baltimore album was actually made years later and this Louisiana album seems likely to date from after 1880 during the nationwide fashion for embroidered quilts.

You don't see that kind of signature in 1869---it's more late Victorian.

Pictures from Jessica Hack who did the restoration work.

New Iberia is a little north of the Gulf of Mexico in the area of Louisiana that some cultural geographers call Acadiana, parishes (counties) with strong French cultural traditions.

New Iberia is the yellow star.
Mary Matilda Tarleton was also from a French
cultural area---New Orleans along the Gulf.

But we see no evidence of any particularly French needlework
traditions in either of these quilts. They could have been made in
Massachusetts, Michigan or Virginia.

So what were women in Louisiana stitching in the years 1840-1870 when seamstresses in New England and New Jersey were piecing friendship quilts and women in Baltimore and neighboring communities were appliqueing elaborate blocks? What was happening there in 1820 when chintz quilts were all the rage in the Carolinas?

Kay Triplett suggested this quilt from her collection
as a Louisiana album stitched before 1870.

A Louisiana album it certainly is. For the book Hidden Treasures: Quilts from 1600-1860 she did much genealogical research on the names, all of which she found in Claiborne Parish, which borders Arkansas in northern Louisiana.

Beautiful shot of the stenciled name of 
Martha Eleanor Bibb Cole Day Zachry (1808-1895)
a Georgia resident for her first seventy years. 

According to her Find-A-Grave website: "After 1880, she went to Louisiana to live with a son by her 1st marriage." She is buried in Dykesville, Claiborne Parish.

Louisiana Parishes

The name on the redwork embroidered block below, Mag Gleason, refers to Margaret Angelina Gleason (1845-1939) who married William Richard Lowe in 1880 and changed her name.



The Claiborne album quilt illustrates well the frustration in dating quilts by interweaving different types of evidence. Without a date on the blocks (or even better the sashing, border or back) we do not know when the quilt was set together. Blocks may have been signed, dated & kept for decades. Genealogy and family stories often conflict with patchwork style as in the New Iberia quilt above.  Mag Gleason's album block is decorated with Turkey red outline embroidery, a technique hugely popular after 1880....


As is Mary E. Taylor's.
Were the blocks begun in one decade, added to and set together at a later date?


There's certainly no lack of quilts attributed to Claiborne County, Louisiana made AFTER 1880.

Unusual pickle dish variation attributed to Frances Kendrick Massey
in the "Camp Community" (Is this actually Campt?)
Claiborne Parish, Louisiana


The maker is probably Martha Frances Whitten Kendrick Massey (1866/7-1952) of Homer who married in 1901. The Louisiana project photographed three of her quilts found in a trunk. She's buried in Lafayette County, Arkansas.

Brother William Austin Kendrick (1852-1934) & family about 1894 
based on 1892 birthdate of baby Oddie. 
They moved to Texas about 1900.

Patchwork on the chair?
Fan-quilted blankets as backdrop.

We digress to William and his classic Southern family photo to illustrate the fluidity of the culture in Northern Louisiana---the Ark-La-Tex region. People came in. The region was "settled by Anglos from the Carolinas, Georgia & Tennessee," according to Gaye Ingram who lives in Ruston about 40 miles from Homer. People like the Kendrick/Masseys went out. Texas always calls. Margaret Gleason Lowe whose name is on the redwork block from Claiborne County went to Texas and is buried in Dallas.

The original question:
What's the earliest Louisiana patchwork quilt we could find in the literature or on-line?
Has evolved into
Why are there no reliably attributed Louisiana patchwork quilts made before 1870 or 1880?

Pink border between parallel cultures. 
Below it French/African/Spanish traditions. 

I have two guesses.
1) Women in the state's Southern areas were not members of a quilt-making culture. As we have seen in Pennsylvania where German speakers did not begin making quilts until about 1840 and in the Dutch Fork, North Carolina where German descendants did not begin the craft until the end of the 19th century, patchwork quilts tended to be a British import.

See a post on German bedding traditions here:
https://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2020/04/quilts-in-dutch-fork.html

The darker the area the more French native speakers fifty years ago.

Traditional bedmaking customs dictated other types of coverings; traditional needlework forms did not include patchwork to any degree. It's only when people in the parallel cultures adopted that rather distinctive mainstream bedding style that quilts become common.


"An Acadian Quilting Party," perhaps photographed in the 1950s.

2) Why no early quilts made in Anglo-Louisiana above the map's pink line? 

Quilt dated 1869, signed Mary A Turley (1854-1917)
Found in the Kansas Quilt Project, made in Indiana before
Mary came to Kansas to marry Levi Morgan in 1871.

This may be explained by lessons we learned in the Kansas quilt project. During the quilt craze along the Atlantic coast in the 1850-1870 period Kansas was settled by immigrants from those areas. Easterners could not bring much west but bedding was considered a necessity. Settlers brought their quilts (a mix of function and sentiment) and it isn't until the 1870s that we found Kansans beginning to create new patchwork bedcovers. Time and again we were disappointed to find mid-19th century quilts like Mary Turley Morgan's, which families attributed to Kansas, to have been made in the east.
See a post here:

1876 Drusilla Showalter Cole, Mound Ridge, Kansas
Earliest date-inscribed quilt made in Kansas out of over 10,000 quilts examined
in Kansas Quilt Project.

When Louisiana women began stitching quilts about the same time as Kansans they adapted current styles popular in the Southern states from which they'd come and the patterns and fabrics their neighbors used at the time. They did not seem to recreate the older quilts they'd brought with them.

Quilt recorded in the Louisiana project, bought in Canton,Texas.
Owner thought it might be 1850 stitched by a slave, but size & style
 (quintuple sash, fading solid fabrics & bold
applique) indicate it is post 1880.

Distinguishing a late-19th-century Louisiana quilt from a late-19th-century Arkansas or Texas quilt is a fool's errand. Sharing style across state lines must have been common---back immigration, regional fairs and quilters just visiting the relatives on the railroad networks.

We can make some pretty educated guesses as to dates even if we can't guess location without family history, so unless we find new dated examples reliably inscribed before 1870 we will have to assume quilting was a late-19th century craft in Louisiana.

Earliest fair record of quilts so far found in Louisiana, 4th State Fair results
in the New Orleans Times-Picayune, May, 1870

UPDATE from Teri Klassen:
Observation on state fairs and quilts:
"4th LA state fair was in 1870, meaning they started just after the Civil War (assuming they were continuous). This was at least a couple decades later than many eastern seaboard and eastern Midwest states (ie Ohio) started having agricultural fairs, which surely were a huge driver for the popularity of fine quiltmaking."

Good point, now we'll have to look at fair origins. When & where.
Next post:
What Louisiana quiltmakers did once they took it up.

See a preview of Lori Lee Triplett & Kay Triplett's 2019 book Hidden Treasures, Quilts from 1600 to 1860: Rarely Seen Pre–Civil War Textiles from the Poos Collection at this link:

https://books.google.com/books?id=adKcDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA31&lpg=PA31&dq=quilt+textile+collections+zachry&source=bl&ots=swu82fKGll&sig=ACfU3U2NZzpwpAfthphfYVE-6lBC2XUGkw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiu2KuLhInqAhWMSTABHSXBDQ4Q6AEwDXoECA0QAQ#v=onepage&q=quilt%20textile%20collections%20zachry&f=false

Thursday, April 30, 2020

Pineapple, Prickly Pear, Tobacco Leaf, Chestnut Burr


Many of us learned our love for quilt patterns from Cuesta Benberry who was the expert on patterns and also on African-American quiltmakers twenty years ago. In her book Piece of My Soul: Quilts by Black Arkansans she showed this quilt by Alice Young Trammell of Magnolia, Arkansas who was born in either the 1860s or 1870s in Arkansas to parents who were slaves.

Two of Alice's quilts were documented in the Michigan
project where her granddaughter lived.
"The quilt design....object of years of search for its place of origin. Not until the South Carolina & North Carolina quilt documentation projects were conducted was it confirmed the quilt design was indigenous to the southeastern coastal regions of the United States...seldom found in other parts of the United States."
From a Jeffrey Evans Auction

Example found in North Carolina, sharing many style characteristics with Alice's. Solid color fabrics, partial blocks along one side. Pattern is a four-way rotating fruit that people today call Pineapple. We've also seen families calling it Prickly Pear and Tobacco Leaf. The arcs, here chrome orange, are important to the design. 

Variations on Prickly Pears (Opuntia) are native in nearly all the United States
but this showy variety with the edible fruit is a Southwestern plant.

South Carolina's book used it on the cover and called it Pineapple.

We posted pictures and did some close looking at the design in our QuiltHistorySouth Facebook group and found quite a few of these---from further afield than the Carolinas.

From a Virginia auction

By Alpha Slemp Haburn, Lee County, Virginia.
Some were rather eccentric.

Florida Museum of History


"Melon Patch Variation with Cock's Comb"
Cora Sibley Mardre, Boston, Georgia

Susan Price Miller found one made in Georgia in the Florida project's book. Several of these pictures are scans from her library.

Kathleen McCrady collection at the University of Texas/Winedale
Kathleen thought it to have been made in Vicksburg, Mississippi.

Mary Germany Hatcher, Winston County, Mississippi book.

 Martha Spark's collection, attributed to Alabama

Betty Meek McKenzie from the Louisiana Project
The family called it Tobacco Leaf.
The Louisiana Project saw quite a few.

Louise Hill McDermott, made in the 1920s, Louisiana
She got the pattern from an old quilt. Sharing the pattern from quilt to quilt seems to be the way
it was handed around, which is why Cuesta was so confounded by the source. Popular as it was it was only published once (see below.)

From the Cornett Family, Madison County, Arkansas

Jeffie Beaver Smith, Calico Rock, Arkansas
Buckboard Quilts

Ebay, attributed to Oklahoma

Cindy Rennells's inventory, found in Oklahoma

Bell Dossey Latham, Turnersville, Texas

Ida Isenblitter Vaughan, St. Augustine, Texas

We've got an example from every Southern state including
this variation found in Missouri


Doddie James Winston, Danville, Kentucky

Except for Maryland, Tennessee & West Virginia. None from Connecticut, Ohio, Pennsylvania or New York so Cuesta was right about the Southern origins. You can't call Arkansas and Oklahoma Southern coastal regions as Cuesta suggested but it would seem it's not so much an upland South pattern but a design popular along the Atlantic & Gulf Coasts and into Texas, Arkansas & Oklahoma.

None of the quilts is actually date-inscribed but most are attributed to 1880 to 1925, during a Southern revival of interest in applique. 

The only published source is this one from Comfort magazine in 1922, a block mailed in by Mrs. M.F. Williams of Texas. Her arcs are upside down, but that may be the only way she could fit them into the block. She called it Chestnut Burr...

The nut covering looks just like it.

Comfort was published in Maine but had a wide Southern audience. Virginia B noted, "It was the first publication in America to have over one million subscribers (in 1894) so it had a wide audience which included the South." Wilene Smith wrote an Uncoverings paper on the "cheap story papers published in Augusta, Maine" said, "They left by the box car load every month." It was so inexpensive (almost a free advertising medium) that people who couldn't afford other periodicals subscribed.

Mrs. Williams's pattern probably did not inspire many readers to make a copy, but we can see that she was interested in the pattern as late as 1922, when several of the quilts above were probably made.


Her block also shows us how it was constructed. While we might make a template with serrated edges she looks to have done hers in simpler dog-tooth style. Some stitchers were more adept at turning those slashes under to make curved arcs. Mrs. Williams slashed and stitched with abandon.

Recent auction described as a "A Southern-Looking Pattern."
This used to be in Cindy Rennell's inventory---Oklahoma.

We didn't come up with any examples from Northern states.

Pineapple attributed to New York via the Rhode Island project

But, like several other patterns we've looked at, the design did not begin as exclusively Southern.


The four-way design repeat goes back to the early red & green appliques of the 1840s. Older examples do not have that extra arc. 

No information, probably 1850-1880. Border does NOT look Southern.
Ditto below.

Found in the Iowa project, made by Mrs. H.C. McIlravy, Illinois, 1850-1875

Album possibly Maryland, Julie Silber's inventory

You could look at it as a combination of fruit and Reel

with Reel designs going back to the earliest days of applique.

M. Rapp 1836, Skinner Auction

Gulf Coast 

It would seem the arcs (and perhaps all those serrated edges) were combined with the traditional pineapple about 1880 and became a Southern regionalism.

Paulding County, Georgia

The quilts are often made in the unstable solid colors so typical of Southern quilts
from 1880 to 1930.

When did the pattern first appear?

Here's a hard-to-date example.
The blocks fit the 1880-1930 clues.


But the chintz strip---looks like a Portuguese-style stripe
popular in the 1830s and '40s...

in South Carolina.

Moar are typical of style about 1900
and a little later.

The pattern seems a great example of the Southern creativity apparent
in applique 1880-1930. Begin with a basic pattern---make it your own.

The stars in this one are also probably slashed and turned under
dogtooth style.