Thursday, April 30, 2020

Pineapple, Prickly Pear, Tobacco Leaf, Chestnut Burr


Many of us learned our love for quilt patterns from Cuesta Benberry who was the expert on patterns and also on African-American quiltmakers twenty years ago. In her book Piece of My Soul: Quilts by Black Arkansans she showed this quilt by Alice Young Trammell of Magnolia, Arkansas who was born in either the 1860s or 1870s in Arkansas to parents who were slaves.

Two of Alice's quilts were documented in the Michigan
project where her granddaughter lived.
"The quilt design....object of years of search for its place of origin. Not until the South Carolina & North Carolina quilt documentation projects were conducted was it confirmed the quilt design was indigenous to the southeastern coastal regions of the United States...seldom found in other parts of the United States."
From a Jeffrey Evans Auction

Example found in North Carolina, sharing many style characteristics with Alice's. Solid color fabrics, partial blocks along one side. Pattern is a four-way rotating fruit that people today call Pineapple. We've also seen families calling it Prickly Pear and Tobacco Leaf. The arcs, here chrome orange, are important to the design. 

Variations on Prickly Pears (Opuntia) are native in nearly all the United States
but this showy variety with the edible fruit is a Southwestern plant.

South Carolina's book used it on the cover and called it Pineapple.

We posted pictures and did some close looking at the design in our QuiltHistorySouth Facebook group and found quite a few of these---from further afield than the Carolinas.

From a Virginia auction

By Alpha Slemp Haburn, Lee County, Virginia.
Some were rather eccentric.

Florida Museum of History


"Melon Patch Variation with Cock's Comb"
Cora Sibley Mardre, Boston, Georgia

Susan Price Miller found one made in Georgia in the Florida project's book. Several of these pictures are scans from her library.

Kathleen McCrady collection at the University of Texas/Winedale
Kathleen thought it to have been made in Vicksburg, Mississippi.

Mary Germany Hatcher, Winston County, Mississippi book.

 Martha Spark's collection, attributed to Alabama

Betty Meek McKenzie from the Louisiana Project
The family called it Tobacco Leaf.
The Louisiana Project saw quite a few.

Louise Hill McDermott, made in the 1920s, Louisiana
She got the pattern from an old quilt. Sharing the pattern from quilt to quilt seems to be the way
it was handed around, which is why Cuesta was so confounded by the source. Popular as it was it was only published once (see below.)

From the Cornett Family, Madison County, Arkansas

Jeffie Beaver Smith, Calico Rock, Arkansas
Buckboard Quilts

Ebay, attributed to Oklahoma

Cindy Rennells's inventory, found in Oklahoma

Bell Dossey Latham, Turnersville, Texas

Ida Isenblitter Vaughan, St. Augustine, Texas

We've got an example from every Southern state including
this variation found in Missouri


Doddie James Winston, Danville, Kentucky

Except for Maryland, Tennessee & West Virginia. None from Connecticut, Ohio, Pennsylvania or New York so Cuesta was right about the Southern origins. You can't call Arkansas and Oklahoma Southern coastal regions as Cuesta suggested but it would seem it's not so much an upland South pattern but a design popular along the Atlantic & Gulf Coasts and into Texas, Arkansas & Oklahoma.

None of the quilts is actually date-inscribed but most are attributed to 1880 to 1925, during a Southern revival of interest in applique. 

The only published source is this one from Comfort magazine in 1922, a block mailed in by Mrs. M.F. Williams of Texas. Her arcs are upside down, but that may be the only way she could fit them into the block. She called it Chestnut Burr...

The nut covering looks just like it.

Comfort was published in Maine but had a wide Southern audience. Virginia B noted, "It was the first publication in America to have over one million subscribers (in 1894) so it had a wide audience which included the South." Wilene Smith wrote an Uncoverings paper on the "cheap story papers published in Augusta, Maine" said, "They left by the box car load every month." It was so inexpensive (almost a free advertising medium) that people who couldn't afford other periodicals subscribed.

Mrs. Williams's pattern probably did not inspire many readers to make a copy, but we can see that she was interested in the pattern as late as 1922, when several of the quilts above were probably made.


Her block also shows us how it was constructed. While we might make a template with serrated edges she looks to have done hers in simpler dog-tooth style. Some stitchers were more adept at turning those slashes under to make curved arcs. Mrs. Williams slashed and stitched with abandon.

Recent auction described as a "A Southern-Looking Pattern."
This used to be in Cindy Rennell's inventory---Oklahoma.

We didn't come up with any examples from Northern states.

Pineapple attributed to New York via the Rhode Island project

But, like several other patterns we've looked at, the design did not begin as exclusively Southern.


The four-way design repeat goes back to the early red & green appliques of the 1840s. Older examples do not have that extra arc. 

No information, probably 1850-1880. Border does NOT look Southern.
Ditto below.

Found in the Iowa project, made by Mrs. H.C. McIlravy, Illinois, 1850-1875

Album possibly Maryland, Julie Silber's inventory

You could look at it as a combination of fruit and Reel

with Reel designs going back to the earliest days of applique.

M. Rapp 1836, Skinner Auction

Gulf Coast 

It would seem the arcs (and perhaps all those serrated edges) were combined with the traditional pineapple about 1880 and became a Southern regionalism.

Paulding County, Georgia

The quilts are often made in the unstable solid colors so typical of Southern quilts
from 1880 to 1930.

When did the pattern first appear?

Here's a hard-to-date example.
The blocks fit the 1880-1930 clues.


But the chintz strip---looks like a Portuguese-style stripe
popular in the 1830s and '40s...

in South Carolina.

Moar are typical of style about 1900
and a little later.

The pattern seems a great example of the Southern creativity apparent
in applique 1880-1930. Begin with a basic pattern---make it your own.

The stars in this one are also probably slashed and turned under
dogtooth style.

Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Early Texas Quilts

Amanda Paralee (Pairalee/Pairlee) Hammonds Linn, (1839-1909)
Rusk County, Texas
Family history says it was made in 1858.
Winedale Quilt Collection at the Briscoe Center for American History

We spent some time looking at Texas quilts; readers posted many late 19th & 20th-century examples but the Texas quilt made before 1870 was rather elusive. This Lone Star, which traveled to Brazil and back after the Civil War, is one of the earliest.

Read more about it at these links.



From the Texas project & the Quilt Index

Quilt reported to have been made in 1868 for wedding of Margaret Eppwright Johnson (1850-1938) in Liberty Hill, Williamson County. This quilt has a reliable story; Margaret's first child was born there in 1871. Twelve names are inscribed in the border and central area.
Links:

Kathy Moore noted:  "I live in Williamson County now. From my reading of local history it would have been a bit of a hard scrabble existence. This beauty would have definitely taken the edge off the hardness of her daily chores."

It seems obvious with these star quilts obviously associated with the Lone Star state that Texas... As Texan Laura Curl Syler wrote: "Texas is 'a State of Mind'!! And all that implies!
And it's been that way for quite a while:

Houston's Museum of Fine Arts
Bayou Bend Collection of Ima Hogg

This block from a Baltimore album about 1850 was probably made by a seamstress who never saw Texas. Before the Civil War Texas was a political issue, a divisive sectional image in the western expansion of slavery.
Links:
https://www.mfah.org/blogs/inside-mfah/a-unique-quilts-salute-to-texas

Texas was more than a geographical place. It's been a larger-than-life icon from the first days of the the Alamo and rebellion from Mexico in the 1830s through the 1844 Polk/Clay Presidential campaign in which Tennessean James K. Polk ran on a platform advocating making the Texas Republic a new slave state to the days of President Lyndon Johnson. 


The Hearth & Home magazine group published Texas about 1900
with the five letters in TEXAS in the star's points.

More quilt patterns are named for Texas than for any other state---many of them Texas stars of varying types. 

Quilt made by Catherine Ann Waring 
DAR Museum
She was known as Kitty throughout her life.

Catherine Ann Waring Waring (1788-1867)

Alden Tullis O'Brien, textile curator at the D.A.R. Museum, brought this quilt to our attention as perhaps the earliest Texas-made quilt in the literature. The chintz fabrics date it to the 1840s when Kitty Waring lived in Texas.

The star's oxblood brown and dark blue prints, being of the same value,
are difficult to see in a photo. Names for the pattern include Mathematical Star,
 Star of Bethlehem and Lone Star.

Kitty married her her cousin Edward Gannt Waring in 1808. In 1840 they went to Liberty County, Texas where he died in 1850 leaving "a large family" many of whom remained there. Kitty returned to Maryland to live with son Dr. James Waring.

The 1860 census finds Kitty "A Lady" in her son's family.



The quilt on the cover of the book Lone Stars
was made in Texas in the 1880s in Brown County
by Sally Beaird Lewellin.

In the 1880s Sally Beaird Lewellin made two of these Sunburst quilts that Kathy Moore wrote about in Uncoverings 2017.

Sally Beaird Lewellin (1852 - 1941)

Sally Beaird, born in Georgia, went to Texas as a young woman and married rancher Gabriel Brence Lewellin in 1883. They lived in Brownwood, Brown County between Abilene and Austin.

Sally's is one of many late-19th-century quilts made in Texas. The lack of earlier quilts might be explained by demographics. A look at census figures indicates Texas had about 12,000 women over 20 years old in 1850. Compare that to Ohio where women numbered nearly a million in general. 

Rocky Mountain Quilt made by Mary Elam Ross (1832-1906)
Milam County, Texas

Mary, born in Mississippi, went to Texas in the early 1850s. The quilt probably dates from the last quarter of the 19th century or perhaps even into the early 20th. Her quilt is pictured in the book Texas Quilts: Texas Treasures.
See a post on her life here:

Texas counties where the five quilts above were made

It also may be that emigrants brought bedding with them. Quilt were both functional and sentimental and would likely have been carried from home in the East. It isn't until the transported bedding wore out that Texans made new (as we also found in Kansas).


All that said---Suzanne Yabsley in her book Texas Quilts, Texas Women quotes from an account of a quilting party along the Gulf Coast about 1840. Cornelius Clay Cox wrote a lengthy memoir of his life in Texas. He went to the Republic of Texas with his sister Catherine Sherman's family when he was twelve. Her husband Sidney Sherman had fought in the Texas war for independence and received a land grant. The Sherman/Cox family left Kentucky in the winter of 1836 and settled on the Bay between Houston and Galveston. 

He described the isolation: 
"It must be remembered that Texas was very new, and at this time very sparsely settled and except the occasional settlements, the Country was in a state of Nature...The families settled along the Bay shore, on either side were mainly from the different southern States. [Each family received a grant] of 4,600 acres...and consequently neighbors were usually 2 to 3 miles apart."
Catherine Cox Sherman (1815 - 1865)

The University of Texas at Austin. The Briscoe Center for American History

Photo probably 20 years after the quilting at the Brinsons.

Their near neighbors were the Louisiana family of Enoch Brinson. Some time about 1840 the Brinsons staged "an old fashioned country quilting." Cornelius remembered the "modus operandi."
"The quilt was stretched in the primitive way, that is between 4 slats and drawn out to the full size of the quilt---and the 4 corners each suspended by a rope to the ceiling---in the best room....The gents on the ground are expected to roll up the sides as fast as needed to pass the thread and scissors---and with anecdotes and small talk to entertain the workers."
He remembered the menu more than the quilt as a teenager would.

Two more books on Texas quilts:
Kate Adams's Comfort and Glory, a catalog of the quilts at the University of Texas's Briscoe Center for American History.
And this long ago catalog Quilts of the Texas South Plains.



Read Cornelius.C. Cox's Reminiscences of C. C. Cox here: